Archive for September 2011
Best Places to Find Old Motorhomes for Sale
Older models of motorhomes are out there everywhere for sale. They are on the lots, privately for sale and everything in between! This is not such a bad thing though, because those ones that have been barely taken out on the roads are the diamonds in the rough. These types of old motorhomes for sale are not as rare as one may first think! So many barely used motorhomes sit in the parking garages and driveways of many just waiting to be bought by a family wanting to utilize it.
There are those motorhomes with high mileage of many years pertaining to numerous fulfilled happy vacations, but then there are those newly bought, used once and parked to gather dust. The least used will be those of higher priced between the two extremes of used motorhomes for sale. The decision of which variation to choose is all up to you and your family needs. There are many points to look at when making your investment choices over which used R.V. is the right one to purchase.
There will be many things to consider besides prices. One of the first things to be considered is the original mileage of the pre-owned motorhome. This will give you a good idea of the wear and tear within the engine that could cost you more than the original for sale price savings later on. There is also the sink and bathroom system. No matter is the highest class or the most basic, you do not want to buy any motorhome home that will cost you in redoing the interior if you were not planning on modifications during your final purchasing.
If wanting to save larger amounts of money when purchasing pre-owned recreational vehicles, inside amenities or the bare necessities of choices are at your hand. If you are buying from a private owner, it is up to the purchaser for making sure everything properly works inside and out of the used motorhome. Old motorhomes for sale can also be found upon new and used lots and dealerships. These pre-owned motorhomes are thoroughly checked from top to bottom for engine, interior, and exterior maintenance.
So where exactly do you find old motorhomes for sale? There are the private owners in the local papers and regional ads, there are the local recreational vehicle sales lots and direct dealerships, and then there are local, regional and national websites all over the Internet to choose from. It is important to use several of these resources before buying. There are so many ways to research a motorhome today before purchasing your family investment that it is hard to go wrong!
Homes For Sale – Factors to Consider Before Buying a Home
The most available units for sale in Nairobi, Kenya are usually 3 bed roomed houses. This is because home buyers usually have a long term plan envisioned to house a large family unit.With the onset of sectional properties act which allows people to buy individual units in an apartment, there are many apartment units for sale especially in the high income areas of Nairobi such as Kilimani, Hurlingham and Lavington.
Plinth area.
When buying a house, plinth area or floor area is very important. Compare floor area versus the cost of the house. The larger the floor area the better.
Other factors to consider are:
Foundation.
Check the type of foundation that your house rests on. The most common type of foundation in Nairobi is strip foundation.In areas with black cotton soil, all soil is excavated to prevent the soil expanding when the ground is wet thus cracking the ground floor slab.
In areas where the black cotton soil is over 1.5 meters deep, it’s cheaper to have a pile foundation whereby the soil is not excavated and columns are sunk till stable ground and the ground floor slab rests supported by the columns and beams.
In areas where the ground is unstable and the building is to go several stories high, e.g. Nakuru, raft foundation is utilized. This is a kind of foundation which has a slab resting on the excavated underground from there columns to support the other floors emerge.
Check whether the damp proof course is well laid. This damp proof membrane helps to prevent the ground floor slab from sucking wetness through capillary action. This wetness makes the inside of the room unusually cold and damp.
Walling.
Most walling in Nairobi is masonry stones from quarries in Njiru, Juja or Ngong. For external walls, check if the stones are 200mm thick. This is thick enough to prevent rain from seeping through the stone from the outside which can cause damage to the paint inside and cause dampness.
Ensure that the walls do not show signs of wetness where they rest on the ground floor slab. Also check for major cracks. If major cracks are visible, this shows that the foundation was not laid on firm ground so the self weight of the building has made the building lean on one side hence the cracks.
For the inside, check the quality of the paint work. In Kenya the paint is manufactured in 1st quality and second quality. Ask if its first quality.
Roof.
Check the roof trusses. For concrete and brick tiles which re heavy, trusses are spaces at 600mm centre to centre so as to be able to be strong enough to carry the heavy load. For concrete and brick tiles, the steeper the roof pitch angle, the better since this will prevent leaking.
For lighter roofs such as iron sheets or stone coated steel roofing sheets the spacing is wider-1.2 meters. For iron sheets, check the thickness of the sheets. Sheets come in various gaouges, 26 being the thickest, followed by 28, 30 and 32 the lightest. The light gauges don’t stay for long before vagaries of weather and rust takes a toll on them.
Negotiating a Real Estate Contract
Negotiating the purchase or sale of a home can be fraught with struggles, ill-will and nastiness. coming the three deal-killers is easy if you remember one thing. Keep your emotions out of real estate contract negotiations. It will reward you handsomely. Plus, if you exit successfully from a ugly negotiation you still have to endure several weeks or months with the other side. On top of that, you might need to go back to the buyer and seller and ask for a closing date extension or inspection repairs. If wear out the other side early, they’ll be much more unlikely to agree to anything you ask for simply because they don’t like you or your attitude.
There are three outcome variables when a real estate contract is drafted by the buyer and presented to the seller.
The seller will accept the terms=contract.
The seller will change the terms=counteroffer.
The seller will reject the terms=the end, start over or walk away.
When the parties to a real estate contract accept the terms, it is known as acceptance. Most states require all real estate contracts to be in writing. And, they require that all offers of price or other terms be in writing. You might want to throw out a number out to a seller in a conversation, but it is not enforceable and is considered by real estate professionals as undesirable.
The counteroffer is the most common scenario in real estate contracts. Many buyers and sellers like the back and fourth of counteroffers and negotiations. But, be forewarned, some buyers and sellers have a low threshold to extended counteroffering. My rule of thumb is once you have gone back and fourth five times, you start to bog down the process. Each side should develop a strategy for negotiating before the real estate contract is formally presented.
In some situations a real estate contract is rejected before acceptance, by either side at any time. Some reasons for rejections are: incompatible closing dates or other terms, price, or another real estate contract is presented and it is more attractive to the seller. I am of the opinion that it is better for a contract to be rejected during negotiations than fall-through after acceptance. Like many things in life, accepted contracts are easier to get into, than out of.
Low-ball offers. Much more common in 2006 and 2007 than in previous years. Real estate market pendulums have swung in the buyers favor. That being said, some of the low-ball offers that buyers recently have attempted to negotiate were twenty-percent under list. Sellers of appropriately priced homes did not even respond. The rule of thumb is to not go below ten-percent of list for an opening price offer. If you can sweeten other terms of a contract to counter the low price, it could help keep you in good graces with the seller.
Counteroffers are like volleyball. Each time an counteroffer is given back to the other side, you will start to know where they want to go on price and terms. If sellers or buyers don’t move off their original price much, they are showing signs of digging in their heals, don’t expect much movement, each round. Early signs of rigidity in counteroffers tell me to buckle your seatbelt another notch, because the other side is not flexible.
The take-it-or-leave-it offer. Sometimes negotiations get near an impasse. The other side might call your bluff and say this is it, take-it-or-leave it. If you developed a strategy as I mentioned earlier, you will know what to do with the ultimatum. And, I hate to say it, the folks who do these ultimatums also like to try and come back after you’ve met the ultimatum and ask for another bump. No, no, and no.
Highest and best offer. Sometimes sellers or their agents get restless in negotiations and want to call your bluff. They’ll say give us your highest and best offer. This is a tricky situation, sometimes if your not in love with a home, you might withdraw the offer and not tip your hand. Especially if you might revisit it later after pursuing other homes.
Bidding Wars. Going into bidding wars is not for the faint of heart. You will probably over-pay for the home, but if you truly want it, it’s okay. You might though have to come up with some extra cash for the down-payment if it doesn’t appraise out, at an inflated price. One of the main problems in bidding wars is not knowing how many offers are on the table. Real estate license laws usually favor the listing agent ‘s need for confidentially with their client, the seller. I’ve also seen all the offers drop out except for one, and you end up negotiating against yourself. I tell my clients to not participate in a multiple offer situation. They become competitive and emotional, I prefer to stay on the sidelines until the dust settles. Since you haven’t tipped your hand, if you are invited to submit your contract after the multiple peter out, you will have a fresh slate with all the frenzy just a learning experience for the sellers.
Don’t be rushed through negotiations. I have seen contracts put into acceptance in hours and at the worst, weeks. I would say, a good negotiation should take no more than two days, with five rounds of counteroffers. If either side starts to delay their response to a counteroffer more than one day, it’s a red flag. Give reasonable deadlines for a response to all your counteroffers.
Full price offers. Sometimes if a home is priced right and new to the market, and you really want it, offer full price. I’ve seen homes slip away over a thousand dollars, and in the scheme of things or as a ratio of list price, it’s dumb.
Withdrawing an offer. If you are working with unreasonable people, or terms that are agreed to are change and continually in flux, walk away. First though, withdraw the offer. Withdrawing can really tell the other side that they are unreasonable. Sometimes they get it, sometimes they don’t. But, most houses are worth the trouble of torture-some sellers or buyers.
Keep a written record of negotiations. It’s easy after a couple of rounds to forget that you agreed to leave the basement refrigerator, or as a buyer to shorten your mortgage contingency, make sure you write down all the changes each round, all experienced real estate agents do.